The camp followers of Washington's army were typically dressed in the clothing of the lower and middling sorts. These were working women so they were dressed primarily in wool, linen, hemp, and to a much lesser extent cotton. Cotton may be king in the 19^th and 20^th centuries but in the 18^th century wool, linen, and hemp could be produced domestically. Cotton was imported and as such much more costly as well as heavily taxed. Needless to say, silks and lace would not have been appropriate. Colours would have been those achieved by the natural dyes and technologies of the period. What follows is a summary of the basic attire of an 18^th century camp follower. They are listed in the order in which they would have been put on as one dressed.

This is the primary piece of women's underwear also referred to as body linen. It is a white t-shaped garment that covers the body from shoulder to elbow to knee but with a scoop neck which exposed much of the upper chest. It would also have been used as sleep attire.

Stockings are typically cotton or wool and cover the knee. In the 18^th century the elbow and the knee were thought to be unappealing and thus were always covered. These were in all likelihood coloured as they would have hid the dirt instead of the white that was fashionable at the time. Shoes would have been made of leather, simple in style and fastened with either buckles or ties. Wooden shoes would have also been appropriate as many working women of many cultures wore them to conserve their costlier leather shoes.

These are the foundation garment of the 18^th century woman. They provided support as well as helping her to achieve the ideal silhouette of the period, which was broad at the hips and shoulders with a conical torso. The shape is achieved with boning. They were typically made of heavyweight linen or leather. They were typically laced up the back but there are examples lacing both in front and back as well. A woman would never have been found outside of her home without her stays unless she wished to be considered a "loose" woman.

In the 18^th century, pockets were worn as a separate piece of attire fastened about the waist and worn under one's petticoat. This is how the Lucy Locket of the nursery rhyme came to lose her pockets. They were pear-shaped and decorated with embroidery.

This is the skirt of the 18^th century, usually made of wool, linen, or hemp depending on the season. They consist of three to four yards of fabric gathered onto a waistband, which is then tied about the waist. There would have been two pocket slits approximately 12 inches in length on either side of the waist at the waistband to allow access to one's pockets. Working women of the period typically wore their petticoats mid-calf in length as this kept it cleaner and out of one's way when working. Multiple petticoats would have been worn in colder weather.

These are the typical tops of the lower to middling sorts. Bed Jackets were slightly longer and less fitted than Short Gowns. Again they are t-shaped garments and made of wool, linen, and some cotton. They would have been closed with pins. Buttons are not usually used to fasten women's clothing in the eighteenth century. This allowed for a garment to be closely fitted to the body when desired as was fashionable at the time. It also allowed garments to be used throughout the various stages of a woman's life. Many of the women of the 18^th century spent much of their time pregnant and as garments were costly, this flexibility was necessary.

While the upper classes could afford fine white linen aprons, the aprons of working women were most likely coloured, checked, or striped to minimize the dirt and staining of everyday life. They were fastened about the waist and occasionally had a bib that was pinned to the chest in an effort to further protect one's clothing.

This was usually a large square of white linen or cotton folded into a triangle and worn about the neck, covering the shoulders and chest and protecting them from the sun's rays. In the 18^th century a sun-tan is neither fashionable nor desirable.

Respectable working class women always wore a cap or kerchief of white linen or cotton covering the hair.

This cap was used to keep one's hair as clean as possible while working (bathing in the 18^th century is infrequent at best). It is also used to keep the hair out of one's eyes and one's fire. Fire is the second leading cause of death among eighteenth century women, childbirth being the first. A low-crowned wide-brimmed straw or felt hat would have completed her ensemble.

Not all of these items are necessary to the beginning reenactor. To start out one would need a chemise, stockings, shoes, petticoat, bed jacket or short gown, apron, and cap. The best sources for patterns for these items are the patterns produced by J.P. Ryan www.jpryan.com, Kanniks Korner www.kannikskorner.com and the book Tidings From the 18^th Century by Beth Gilgun.